The Dandenong Ranges are Melbourne’s backyard rainforest. Less than an hour from the CBD, you go from suburbia to towering mountain ash trees, fern gullies, and villages that feel like they belong in an English countryside novel. It’s one of the best day trips you can do from Melbourne, and most people only ever do the 1000 Steps and leave.
This guide covers everything worth doing up there, from the obvious to the stuff locals actually come back for. Whether you want a challenging hike, a lazy afternoon of scones and gardens, or something to keep the kids entertained, the Dandenongs deliver.
Contents
- Walks & Hikes
- Gardens
- Puffing Billy Railway
- Villages & Shopping
- Food & Drink
- Best Views
- Family-Friendly
- Practical Tips
Walks & Hikes
1000 Steps (Kokoda Track Memorial Walk)
Start: Ferntree Gully Picnic Ground
Distance: Approx 3km return loop
Time: 30 mins to 1.5 hours depending on fitness
Difficulty: Moderate to challenging
More info: Parks Victoria
This is the one everyone knows. Officially the Kokoda Track Memorial Walk, it’s a steep climb through lush rainforest with plaques along the trail honouring Australian soldiers who fought on the real Kokoda Trail in Papua New Guinea during World War II. It’s Melbourne’s most popular bushwalk for a reason: it’s accessible, challenging enough to feel like a workout, and genuinely beautiful.
The best way to do it is to start at Ferntree Gully Picnic Ground, climb the steps, and then return via the Lyrebird Track for a loop rather than going back down the same way. There’s a cafe at the bottom of the track.
The honest take: It gets absolutely packed on weekends, especially Saturday mornings. Runners, families, fitness groups. If you want a peaceful experience, go on a weekday or arrive before 8am on a weekend. The trail is steep and can be slippery when wet, so wear proper shoes, not thongs.
Sherbrooke Forest & Sherbrooke Falls
Start: Sherbrooke Picnic Ground
Distance: Various loops from 2km to 7km
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
If the 1000 Steps is the Dandenongs’ cardio workout, Sherbrooke Forest is its meditation session. This is proper old-growth forest: towering mountain ash, tree ferns, and some of the best birdlife in Melbourne. Superb lyrebirds are frequently spotted here, scratching through leaf litter and doing their incredible mimicry.
The Sherbrooke Falls Walk is a moderately graded loop that leads to a gentle seasonal waterfall. It’s not Niagara, but the walk through the forest to get there is the real attraction. The Eastern Sherbrooke Forest Walk (7km, about 2 hours) is excellent if you want something longer.
The honest take: This is where you come when you want to actually feel like you’ve left Melbourne. It’s quieter than the 1000 Steps, more atmospheric, and the lyrebirds alone are worth the trip. Trails can get muddy after rain, so boots are a good idea.
Olinda Creek Walking Track
Distance: 5.6km
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
A lovely family-friendly walk that follows Olinda Creek through fern gullies and forest. Less steep than the 1000 Steps, more accessible, and just as beautiful in its own way.
Gardens
Dandenong Ranges Botanic Garden (formerly National Rhododendron Gardens)
Location: Olinda
Entry: Free
More info: Parks Victoria
40 hectares of cool-climate gardens with thousands of azaleas, camellias, daffodils, and over 15,000 rhododendrons, including Australia’s largest collection. Spring (September to November) is peak time for colour, but autumn is equally spectacular as the deciduous trees turn. Well-maintained paths make it accessible for all fitness levels, and elevated spots offer views across the Yarra Ranges.
What to order: Nothing. It’s free. Just walk and enjoy it. Pack a picnic.
Alfred Nicholas Memorial Gardens
Location: Sherbrooke
Entry: Free
This is the most photogenic spot in the Dandenongs. Stone bridges, expansive lawns, and a central lake surrounded by deciduous trees that go absolutely spectacular in autumn. The reflections on the water with red and gold foliage are genuinely stunning and you’ll see why photographers love this place.
The honest take: If you only visit one garden in the Dandenongs, make it this one. It’s compact, beautiful, free, and you can do it in under an hour. Best in April-May for autumn colour.
Cloudehill Gardens & Nursery
Location: Olinda
Website: cloudehill.com.au
Internationally recognised for its beauty, Cloudehill has themed “garden rooms” including a shrub walk, peony pavilion, and Japanese maple trees that have been growing here for nearly a century. The volcanic soil makes everything grow extraordinarily well. There’s a bonsai nursery, seed store, and a seasonal restaurant on-site.
The honest take: Not free (entry fee applies), but worth it for garden lovers. The restaurant is solid too. Combine it with a walk around nearby Olinda for a complete morning.
Puffing Billy Railway
Route: Belgrave to Gembrook (50km)
Website: puffingbilly.com.au
Runs: Daily (except Christmas Day)
Puffing Billy is one of the world’s finest preserved steam railways. The historic train has been running for over a century, taking passengers through mountain ash forests and fern gullies, over timber trestle bridges, and past views that stretch to Port Phillip Bay on a clear day.
The classic experience is the open-sided carriages where you can dangle your legs over the edge (yes, really). The full Belgrave to Gembrook journey takes about 2 hours one way, but you can also do shorter sections. Many people ride to Lakeside (Emerald Lake Park) and stop there for a walk and a coffee before riding back.
What visitors say: “A hugely popular tourist attraction which has been enthralling visitors, young and old, for over a century.” The open-sided carriages through the fern gullies and towering Mountain Ash are genuinely magical, and the Monbulk Creek Trestle Bridge crossing is a highlight.
The honest take: Yes, it’s touristy. Yes, it’s worth it anyway. Book ahead, especially on weekends and school holidays. The Belgrave to Lakeside section is the most scenic and the most manageable for families with young kids. Do the full Gembrook run if you want the complete experience.
Villages & Shopping
Sassafras
Sassafras is the postcard village of the Dandenongs. The main street is lined with artisan boutiques, antique shops, and tearooms that feel like they’ve been here forever. Miss Marple’s Tearoom is the standout for Devonshire teas, and Tealeaves sells some of the finest loose-leaf teas in Australia. Kids will love Geppetto’s Workshop for toys and puppets.
Olinda
Olinda is slightly less polished than Sassafras but equally charming. Good cafes, a few galleries, and a playground that’s excellent for families. It’s also the gateway to the Botanic Garden and Cloudehill.
Belgrave
Belgrave is the hub. It’s where Puffing Billy departs from and where the Belgrave train line terminates, making it the most accessible point for anyone coming from Melbourne by public transport. The town has a relaxed atmosphere, some good cafes, and the Sooki Lounge, a quirky live music venue that hosts gigs regularly.
Food & Drink
The Dandenongs are famous for their tearooms, and honestly, having scones with jam and cream overlooking a fern gully is one of the most pleasant things you can do in Melbourne. Here are the standouts:
Devonshire Teas & Cafes
Miss Marple’s Tearoom (Sassafras) is the classic. Traditional Devonshire teas in a setting that feels like an Agatha Christie novel. Always busy but worth the wait.
SkyHigh Mount Dandenong does house-made scones alongside their bistro and cafe, with the added bonus of panoramic views over Melbourne.
Piggery Cafe & Burnham Bakery (Sherbrooke) is rustic-chic, set in the restored stables and piggery of the historic Burnham Beeches estate. Hearty country breakfasts and long lunches, with outdoor tables overlooking lawn bowls and croquet pitches. Part of chef Shannon Bennett’s ambitious project on the property.
Pretty much every village has at least one tearoom doing freshly baked scones. Sassafras, Olinda, and Kallista are your best bets. Just wander and follow your nose.
Best Views
SkyHigh Mount Dandenong
Website: skyhighmtdandenong.com.au
Perched at the top of Mount Dandenong, SkyHigh offers panoramic views over Melbourne, the bay, and on a clear day, across to the You Yangs and beyond. There’s a bistro and cafe, manicured gardens, picnic areas with free BBQs, a hedge maze (the largest in Melbourne), and various walking tracks.
The sunset from SkyHigh is genuinely spectacular, especially in autumn when the light hits right.
The honest take: It can feel a bit “tourist attraction” in its setup, but the views are undeniable. Good for families. The maze is fun for kids. The cafe is decent but not destination-worthy on its own. Come for the views, stay for the gardens.
Family-Friendly
Puffing Billy: The obvious one. Kids love it. Book the Belgrave to Lakeside section and combine it with paddleboats and walks at Emerald Lake Park.
Emerald Lake Park: Paddleboats, walking tracks, free BBQs, a cafe, and plenty of open space for kids to run around. You can also access it via Puffing Billy, which makes for a great combined day out.
Grants Picnic Ground: At the edge of Sherbrooke Forest, surrounded by towering mountain ash. Cockatoos, rosellas, and parrots fly in regularly. Note: organised bird feeding is no longer allowed, but the birds still turn up. Accessible walks lead off from the picnic ground. (Note: The cafe at Grants Picnic Ground is temporarily closed as of early 2026 while Parks Victoria runs a new operator process. Check before visiting.)
Tesselaar Tulip Festival: Mid-September to mid-October each year. Over a million spring flowering bulbs. If you’re visiting Melbourne in spring with kids, this is an excellent day out.
SkyHigh Maze: The largest hedge maze in Melbourne. Combine with the views and gardens for a solid family afternoon.
Olinda Playground: Rated as one of the best playgrounds in the outer east. Worth a stop if you’re driving through Olinda with little ones.
Practical Tips
Getting there: By car, it’s about an hour from the CBD via the M1 freeway and Burwood Highway. This is the best option as it lets you move between villages and attractions easily. By public transport, take the Belgrave line train to Belgrave (about 1 hour from Flinders Street) or Upper Ferntree Gully for the 1000 Steps. From there, local buses connect some attractions, but a car is much more practical.
When to go: Autumn (April-May) is the best time. The deciduous trees at Alfred Nicholas Gardens and throughout the villages are stunning, the weather is crisp and comfortable, and the summer crowds have gone. Spring (September-November) is excellent for the gardens and the Tulip Festival. Winter is moody and atmospheric but can be cold and wet. Summer is fine but can be hot on the valleys.
What to wear: Layers. The Dandenongs are consistently cooler than Melbourne (often 3-5 degrees lower), and the weather can change quickly. Proper shoes for any walking. Rain is always possible.
Dogs: Dogs are not allowed in Dandenong Ranges National Park (which includes the 1000 Steps). This is to protect the wildlife, particularly the lyrebirds and wallabies. Leave your dog at home.
Mobile reception: Patchy in the forest areas. Download maps and directions before you leave.
The perfect day trip itinerary:
- Morning: 1000 Steps or Sherbrooke Forest walk (arrive early)
- Mid-morning: Drive to Olinda, explore the Botanic Garden or Cloudehill
- Lunch: Devonshire tea at Miss Marple’s in Sassafras, or lunch at the Piggery Cafe
- Afternoon: Alfred Nicholas Gardens (especially in autumn), then finish at SkyHigh for the view
- If time: Browse the shops in Sassafras, or catch Puffing Billy from Belgrave
Deer control notice (2026): Parks Victoria is conducting deer control in the Dandenong Ranges National Park between March and May 2026, with closures of some areas between 4pm and 7am on select nights. Check signage at park access points.
This guide is updated regularly. Last updated: April 2026.
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